"We don’t regret leaving Korea for France 40 years ago" — Gwon Hyun Mee and You-chul, restaurateurs in Paris
When Gwon Hyun Mee and her husband You-chul arrived in France in the mid-1980s, they never imagined that one day they would run several Parisian establishments: Bistrot Mee, Table de Mee, and now Mee Café. Their journey, which began in political science lecture halls in Seoul, evolved into a family and entrepreneurial adventure.
Written by Léa Baron on October 8, 2026
Gwon Hyun Mee and Gwon You-chul met at university in Seoul, where they were studying political science—he was passionate about politics, she about history. The late 1970s and early 1980s were marked by a tense political climate in South Korea under an authoritarian presidency. "There was a lot of repression," recalls Hyun Mee..
South Korea: Tensions and Development in the 1970s and 1980s
Throughout the 1970s and into the mid-1980s, South Korea experienced a period of rapid development, albeit under an authoritarian political regime. The country was led first by Park Chung-hee (1961–1979) and subsequently by Chun Doo-hwan (from 1980 onwards), amidst a climate characterized by severe restrictions on civil liberties, political surveillance, and the suppression of student and labor movements.
Economically, however, this era corresponds to what became known as the "Miracle on the Han River": a phase of accelerated industrialization driven by an export-oriented strategy and the rise of major industrial conglomerates, or *chaebols*. While this rapid growth profoundly transformed Korean society, it was also accompanied by significant social inequality, harsh working conditions, and recurring social unrest.
Their departure was not merely an academic move, but a deeply personal and political one. At a time when many students were heading to the United States, You-chul rejected that option. It was "out of the question" for this longtime Marxist. The couple ultimately chose France—almost by default, yet also out of curiosity.
Arrival in France: A culture shock in daily life
They arrived in Paris in 1985, shortly after getting married. There was an immediate disconnect between the image of an "advanced" country and the reality they actually encountered.
"You have to wait just to get a coffee... even paying at the supermarket requires patience," recounts You-chul, who finds the memory amusing in hindsight.
The early days were tough. They lived in a small, dark two-room apartment in the 15th arrondissement. Hyun Mee went through a period of intense homesickness: "I cried—I cried a lot at first—but I was determined to adapt quickly," she says emphatically.
Grigny: A different side of France and a new balance
The couple left Paris to settle in the suburb of Grigny, where they lived for nine years. There, they discovered a more modern environment that reminded them of Seoul neighborhoods then under development, such as Gangnam.
"It wasn't French people living there; it was foreigners like us," explains Hyun Mee. "In fact, there were already Koreans there, too."
Their only son, Hagni, grew up in a multicultural environment. While the couple did not particularly socialize with the Korean community, they spoke Korean at home and sent their son to Korea once a year to maintain his language skills.
Tour guide-interpreter and stay-at-home dad
Passionate about art and history, Hyun Mee studied at the École du Louvre for two years before becoming a tour guide-interpreter. In 2000, she founded a travel agency for Korean tourists visiting France, a business she would run for 25 years.
This venture became their first solid economic foundation.
During this period, You-chul stayed at home.
"I became the first Korean stay-at-home dad," he recounts with pride.
He oversaw their son’s upbringing and made a pivotal decision: steering him toward music. "There is a lot of racism in France," he asserts. He viewed classical music as a more meritocratic field and encouraged Hagni to learn the violin.
Hagni went on to attend the Paris Conservatory before eventually moving away from that path to pursue a different musical direction, eventually joining the well-known band L’Impératrice as a keyboardist.
2006: The birth of Gwon’s Dining
The family’s entrepreneurial turning point came in 2006 with the opening of their first restaurant, Gwon’s Dining. The idea had been in the works for a long time. "I always wanted to open a restaurant to share Korean culture," You-chul had been saying ever since they first arrived in France.
It was there that he discovered cuisine as a significant cultural and political language. Hyun Mee played a key role in creating many of the recipes.
"We weren't restaurateurs, but we had a vision."
Every detail was carefully considered: elegant tableware, meticulous presentation, and impeccable service. "The same dish served on a different plate doesn't hold the same value," You-chul points out.
The venue became a place for people to meet: "Our tables were shared 50-50 between French and Korean guests, including many VIPs and ambassadors," the couple explains. "Running a restaurant also means meeting people—like the Korean artist Lee Ufan—and learning about life through one's customers," adds Hyun Mee.
Bistrot Mee, Table de Mee
The Gwon’s dining adventure came to an end in 2017 after eleven intense years.
With the involvement of their son Hagni, the couple launched another establishment, Bistrot Mee, in 2014, offering "authentic flavors with a modern presentation—though not fusion," they explain. It serves up delicious, popular Korean cuisine.
Then, in 2022, came La Table de Mee—offering highly refined traditional Korean cuisine—which was awarded a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand in 2023.
Finally, just a stone's throw away, they teamed up with their son to launch Mee Café in 2026, a Korean café inspired by Hyun Mee’s pastries.
Korea Today: Distance and Pride
Over the years, their perspective on Korea has evolved. The country has undergone profound transformation and gained global cultural visibility.
"Korea has changed enormously. We feel a certain pride in our country. Koreans have worked very hard. In a very short time, the country has achieved a great deal."
Yet their identity has become more complex: "You could say we’ve become foreigners in both countries," acknowledges Hyun Mee.
Nevertheless, she maintains strong family ties in Korea—with her 96-year-old mother, as well as her brother and sister. They travel there about once a year to visit them.
A Life in France: Continuity and Passing It On
"I don’t regret leaving Korea for France 40 years ago," confirms You-chul, "because it allowed me to discover French-style democracy—with both its good and bad sides."
Their lives remain rooted in France, close to their son and granddaughter.
Hyun Mee is also seeking more time for herself these days: "For a while now, I’ve been doing something for myself once a week—like visiting an exhibition with friends. I’d like to keep enjoying this life in France, something I couldn't do during all those years I was working. For now, I’m very happy here."
A Story of Passing It On and Creation
What continues to drive them is creativity and connection—and perhaps one final project for You-chul: opening an intimate fine-dining restaurant one day (maybe called "Gastronomee"?) with just ten seats, to cap off the journey of these two students who arrived in Paris 40 years ago. From their beginnings in Seoul to the tables of their Parisian restaurants, their story is driven by a single idea: fostering a dialogue between cultures and demonstrating that cuisine can also be a form of thought.
